How to Size a Battery Bank: From Load Calculation to System Design
EGbatt Guide · Sizing
Undersized banks are the most common, most expensive mistake in storage design. This guide takes you from a plain list of loads to a bank size you can actually buy — with a worked example you can copy.
Updated 2026 · 6 min read · Written by EGbatt application engineers
Step 1 — List your loads in Wh per day
For every device write watts × hours/day. A fridge (150 W × 6 h = 900 Wh), lights (40 W × 5 h = 200 Wh), laptop (60 W × 4 h = 240 Wh). Sum them. Do not guess — measure or read the label.
Step 2 — Choose autonomy days
Autonomy is how many sunless/windless days you must ride through. Off-grid homes often use 2–3 days; grid-backup may use 1. More autonomy = bigger, costlier bank.
Step 3 — Apply depth of discharge
You only use part of the bank. At 80% DoD, divide daily Wh by 0.8. This is where the DoD/life trade-off lives — deeper daily DoD means a smaller but shorter-lived bank.
Step 4 — Worked example
Input
Value
Math
Daily load
1,340 Wh
measured above
Autonomy
2 days
× 2 = 2,680 Wh
Usable at 80% DoD
÷ 0.8
= 3,350 Wh needed
Choose
—
round to a 3.5–4 kWh 48V bank
Step 5 — Size inverter and charger
Inverter continuous rating must exceed your largest simultaneous load; surge rating must cover motors. Charger/PV must refill the used Ah within a day of sun. Pick the voltage from the inverter size, then confirm cable.